The concept of black beauty and its evolution

The concept of “Black Beauty” and its evolution

Not to take anything away from Anna Sewell’s novel with the same title, black beauty is such a broad and deep topic that I wouldn’t be able to do justice with just one write-up. It is not based solely on beauty’s physical meaning but a holistic cultural movement that changed history’s face.

The beginning

On 28^th January 1962, the African Jazz-Art Society and Studios organized a fashion show titled ‘Naturally ’62 outside a Harlem nightclub in New York City. So popular was the show that it had to be held for a second time that very night, igniting a spark that spread like a veld fire among the black community.

The show featured black women who did not epitomize the western concept of beauty: strutting the runway in their afros with pride whilst adorning garments inspired by Lagos, Accra and Nairobi’s designs.  The models were darker-skinned and fuller-figured, a protest to how Ebony magazine did not have any ebony girls in it. These models came to be known as the Grandassa models.

Evolution

The term ‘black is beautiful’ became popular in the 1960s and 70s, emerging from a broad embrace of black culture and identity. African American editor, educator, critic and author Hoyt Fuller was quoted in 1968 saying, “Across this country, young black men and women have been infected with a fever of affirmation. They are saying, ‘We are black and beautiful”.  And indeed it was the truth.

The movement called for an appreciation of the black past whilst also inspiring cultural pride in black people’s achievements. There was also increased appreciation of natural hairstyles and the variety of skin colours, hair textures and physical characteristics in the African American community. It aimed to dispel racist notions that black people are inherently ugly. The movement later spread to the rest of the of the world.

Pride and power

This revolution was based on empowerment. A lot of African Americans began to don styles connected to their African heritage. The Afro comb customized with a black fist symbolizes asserting political and cultural allegiance to the black power movement. Black writers used their creativity to support the revolution, and some even went on to study African languages to regain connection to the African continent.

There was also a lot of emphasis on self-sufficiency and supporting your community, with a particular focus on buying black’. The book “The Black Aesthetic” by Addison Gayle is a compilation of essays that encouraged black artists to create content relevant to black life and culture.

Modern-day take

The achievements of the Grandassa Models during the civil rights movement continue to impact modern-day society. Although the world has somewhat embraced natural hair today, studies show that Eurocentric perceptions of ‘good’ hair have excluded black women. Activists are currently working on legislation that prohibits race-based hair discrimination in employment. In some countries, black people have won some landmark cases concerning discrimination based on hair.

An appreciation for the natural hair movement has grown in the past decade, with the global natural hair care market growing significantly. Where you previously couldn’t find a product suited to your natural black hair and had to make do with what you could find on the supermarket shelves, the market has suddenly opened up with solutions that fit a more comprehensive range of needs. This triumphs in asserting black worth as discrimination against black hair can be traced back to slavery.

As Rihanna debuted her Fenty collection, the message of black empowerment and community was expressed as she acknowledged the work done by Kwame Brathwaite in inspiring her collection. Beyoncé’s visual album ‘Black is King’ is a modern celebration of black ancestry’s breadth and beauty. It has even given me the confident to rock my natural hair and teach my children to be black and beautiful.

Today, the Black is Beautiful movement is again in the streets, but under a different name, Black Lives Matter. The protest over police killings of black people and a call for criminal justice reforms is a revolution that evokes emotions on the value put on black people. Until equality for black people is achieved, the Black is Beautiful movement’s themes will continue to be relevant.